Thursday, March 26, 2015

Charleston, SC - Dueller's Alley

If it’s Thursday, we must have moved on yesterday to another city - this time it’s Charleston, SC. From Savannah, GA to Charleston, SC - two old southern cities - both with lots of history.

Today we visited Fort Sumter in the morning and walked through town in the afternoon. One place we went into was the Powder Magazine, one of South Carolina’s oldest attractions and considered the first of many restoration projects that Charleston has undertaken to recover its history. Both Gary and I are amazed that so many people at the turn of the century, both in Savannah, GA and here in Charleston, saw the need to preserve their cities and the history that they represented. Others wanted to tear down, to replace and that urge is still prevalent today. But others thought that the past should be preserved so that the future might see it and learn about their ancestors. We are so grateful that we can stroll the cobblestone streets, under the ancient oaks and alongside the homes.
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The Powder Magazine was a cute little museum. Lots of information but they also made it interesting for all. They had this original pillory which Gary thought I should try out.
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Hey, Gary, bring back the key!!!

Did you know there were female pirates? They talked about the danger of piracy on shipping coming into Charleston and then mentioned 2 of the female pirates.
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They had some old period muskets for anyone to handle. They had some costumes for kids to try on. They even had a game in which you could try to adjust the height of a cannon to fire on a ship as it approached the harbor. They are trying to capture every generation in their displays and I think they did a good job. They had some of the original wall covered in plastic to show what the building looked like before they put on some stucco over it to preserve it.
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And, by the way, we also strolled through Dueler’s Alley, formally named Philadelphia Alley. Narrow, tree-lined, dark even on a sunny day and quiet, a perfect place to hold a duel and many were held here. Gotta uphold one’s honor, you know - even to the death. One story that I read was about a young man in Boston studying medicine who fell in love with a young woman who returned his feelings. However, another also loved her and began to libel our young hero, spreading rumors about his morality and stories about his birth, hoping to gain the young woman’s favor. Our young hero, who did not yet think himself financially able to marry, moved to Charleston to begin practice and establish himself.

When he arrived, he was accosted by a gang of toughs but was saved and befriended by a Mr. Isaac. They became fast friends traveled in different circles. He was the doctor to many in the wealthy class and hobnobbed with them. Mr Isaac became jealous and began to spread rumors about our young hero, just as before. Finally, our hero, his honor questioned, challenged Isaac to a duel in Dueller’s Alley. They met, chose their weapons, paced off the correct number of steps, turned and fired. Our hero fired up into the air. Isaac fired straight and true and the budding doctor died. Such is the type of story in Dueller’s Alley.
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By the way, if you stroll through the alley, you must go all the way to the end, turn and retrace your steps back to where you started. If not, you will be haunted by the ghosts of those who died within its confines.

We also toured the Slave Mart while we were in the historic part or town. It was a ‘retail shop’ trading in slaves. The slave trade was a viable business model in the southern states but, of course, many of the slave ships were owned by Northerners. However, in 1808, the US banned participation in the international slave trade so, from then on, it was all ‘domestic’ slave trade, trading in slaves already in the US. Then in 1856, Charleston enacted a ban on public slave auctions so Charleston Sheriff Thomas Ryan and council member opened a private slave auction in some buildings he owned. Auctions were held here until 1863 and in 1865 the Union army occupied the city and closed the mart. But for 7 years slaves were bought and sold like cattle.

Today the old mart is a museum detailing the aspects and the horrors of the slave trade on the first floor and how the slaves dealt with their slavery, their accomplishments and their triumphs over slavery on the second floor. There were a few artifacts in the museum but most of the museum was a series of drawings and readings about the slave trade. We could not take pictures. We had read elsewhere that 20,000,000 slaves were taken from Africa to the American but that only 4-5% landed in what we call the US. Where did the others to? Most went to Brazil, many went to Haiti and the Dominican Republic and many to Barbados to work on the sugar plantations.
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Charleston has so much history and so many thing to see - this is not the prettiest and certainly not any fun but it is not only a part of the city’s history but also a part of the history of the US that affects us still today.

It’s late, we are hungry and want to get back to our RV but first we have to get to our car in the parking ramp. Well, there’s a train on the tracks between us and at least 125 others and the ramp where all of our cars are. The train is rolling forward then backward and then forward again trying to get the right cars loaded in the right order. Finally, it heads on down the track and we all rush for our cars. As we were heading down the ramp, we noticed that the line was going really fast - how could the line go so fast if everyone had to pay? The answer: no one had to pay. The ramp was letting us out of jail free because of the train. WOW. What a great way to end the day. Instead of forking over $16 for out 8 hours in the ramp, we only had to thank the guy collecting the tickets. And, boy, did we thank him.

Monday, March 23, 2015

Savannah, GA - In Your Easter Bonnet

Sometimes we visit a really good museum, sometimes not so good but today we visited one with great promise that just didn’t have its act quite together. The displays were very good and the explanation was fine but the organization - whoo-eee. No order. We saw a good American Revolution display next to a WWI & WWII display next to a Civil War display and on the end a display about women’s hats. In the middle of all this was Forrest Gump’s bench.
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My head was spinning. What kind of order was this? Chronological? Alphabetical? Higgeldy-piggeldy? I’m thinkin’ the last. Unfortunately, the order detracted from the displays themselves which were quite well set up.

They had one from a dentist’s office. This dentist practiced until the 90’s using this set-up which he bought for $600 when he started practice in the 40’s. ‘Works just as good as the new equipment’ he said.
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There was a good film summarizing the history of Savannah through the eyes of the Oglethorpe statue which is in the center of town on one of the beautiful squares he laid out when he founded the town. He was narrating the history of Savannah from his founding to the present day. Twee but it really worked. Watch the film, cruise the museum.

But, we followed that museum up with a visit to Old Fort Jackson which was super. We’ve seen so many old forts these last few weeks that we think we might pass. But this was excellent. We saw not only the whole fort, a good film about its history and place in the Civil War but also had a marvelous guide/re-enactor who told us all about the food they ate, the things they carried with them, the medicine they took for sickness (it was an ‘interactive’ demonstration and some in the audience ‘volunteered’ to taste the medicine - like quinine.) and then led the group through a cannon loading and firing followed by an actual firing of the cannon. Pretty cool and we really enjoyed his presentations. As we toured the fort we saw many different displays inside each of the casemates, the vaulted section under each cannon on top of the walls. Very well set up of an old fort.
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He showed us the iPhone they had during the war. Not wireless since it had to be hooked up to wire.
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He even demonstrated loading a cannon but without real powder with some of the school kids that were on the tour. He then loaded it himself and shot it off - and we all had to put our hands over our ears
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As were were inside, the Nina and the Pinta sailed by.
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Well, these were really not the Nina and the Pinta but copies of them that sail around the world stopping in lots of ports for people to tour. And they were not sailing by - they were under motor. We had been excited to see them sailing by the fort but were both a bit underwhelmed. They looked like ghost ships since they were so dark and it’s hard to see how tiny they were in this picture. But, we were were amazed that anyone could sail across the Atlantic in something so small.

In the gift shop we noticed these cute little hats. Tell me, which side of the Civil War wore pink hats? Gary immediately shouted out: ‘the Losers.’ But that’s unfair. These are for little girls who would like a memento but want something bolder than navy blue or grey, the colors usually sold. But, then they also have these neat little bonnets (and Easter is so close. Won’t I be stunning in the Easter Parade in this cute little number?) I was having a hard time deciding which one to buy. When I sent a text to a friend, she told me to splurge and buy both. Good idea. I can wear the bonnet when we're traveling on down the road - like the pioneers.
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Finally, we followed the museum and the fort with a cemetery, the Bonaventure Cemetery with is old layout, stones and markers. We wanted to see particular graves and looked them up on the cemetery locator computer and we took a smart phone picture of the diagram so we wouldn’t get lost. As we started out down the lane, we saw the signs pointing to the same graves we wanted to see. Looks like everyone wants to see the same ones. Guess we didn’t need the pictures.

One of the most well-known graves contains the smallBonaventureCemetery-18-2015-03-23-15-06.jpg statue of Grace Watson, the 6-year old daughter of a hotel manager in Savannah. She died of pneumonia and a traveling sculptor made a statue which is the exact likeness of the little girl. Her father was the hotel manager in 1864 when General Sherman marched into town and wanted Sherman and his men stay in his hotel. Sherman replied that ‘we are not in the habit of paying board’ and stayed in a private home in the area.
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Another well-known grave is that of the Runner, a woman who ran marathons and other races but was also well-known in the city.
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Finally, we wanted to see the grave of Johnny Mercer of musical fame. I knew he did Moon River and Charade but I was surprised to see how many other songs he wrote that I remember. Songs such as:

        Blues in the Night - one of my favorites

        I’m an Old Cowhand

        Jeepers, Creepers,

        Autumn Leaves

        Atchison, Topeka and the Santa Fe

        Come Rain or Come Shine

        Days of Wine and Roses

        Hooray for Hollywood

        In the Cool, Cool of the Evening

        One More for my Baby

        Somethin’s Gotta Give

        That Old Black Magic

        You Must Have Been a Beautiful Baby

How can you make a song out of ‘Ac-cen-tu-ate the Positive?’
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But we were intrigued by all the other graves of people less well known. Very interesting cemetery and we knew we were not in Iowa anymore.
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We had a three-fer today, time to get back to the RV, have dinner and begin to get ready for out trip tomorrow. It’s hard to realize that we’ve been here for a week. Have we seen what we wanted to? Heck no, I’ve still got things on my list that we can see next time. However, we also took time out to work on our taxes and my brother’s taxes. We do taxes on Turbo Tax and it is so slick - but it still takes time. At the end they give me the choice of how I want to get the message out that I’ve done our taxes: Twitter, Facebook or what ever. Oh, yeah, I want to send a tweet out that I’ve done our taxes. I don’t think so.