Our weather in Pacifica here on the ocean is foggy and cool. Our weather aps tell us that the temps in SF itself are supposed to hit 60 degrees and that it will be sunny by 11:00. So, we decided to head into SF on the ‘promise’ that it will be nice weather. No guarantees but at least it is a chance.
One of the most unique features of San Francisco is the plethora of stairways. Some replace sidewalks, some replace alleys, some are cement, some wood and some metal, some are lined with flowers and greenery and some are utilitarian and plain cement. But, they link this city of hills and serve as conduits between neighborhoods and streets. They are an integral part of what San Francisco is. Some people walk them every day on their way to work, some walk them for exercise, some walk their dogs on them but it is difficult to live your life here in San Francisco without walking a stairway sometime each week. On the other hand, there are some stairways that we don’t think anyone uses. They are long and hidden away between streets populated by people who use their cars.
Our goal was to search out and climb some of the stairways. Stairways? Isn’t that just a way to get from one level to another? Is seeking out stairways something that normal people do? Well, yes. It seems as if there are quite a few people, locals and tourists, who actually seek out these stairways to climb, to study, to make a catalogue for others to follow and to make a ‘collection’ of these. In face, there are books, web sites and aps on this topic for our IPhone. This seems to be the perfect kind of ‘collection’ for those who live in an RV since they take up no space what-so-ever. But - and here’s the rule: you must walk the stairway for it to count in your collection. You don’t necessarily have to walk it both ways since there are often companion stairs for you to take in the oppostie direction. But you must walk at least one direction.
And, searching out the stairways is a perfect way to see lots of San Francisco that tourists don’t usually see. It gives you a chance to walk the streets, eat in the small restaurants and talk with the locals on their turf. We see them walk their dogs, tend their gardens, park their cars and rehab their homes (in fact there is a lot of that going on.) What tourists often see is the pretty facade that a city puts on to lure the tourists. These sidewalks link the real San Francisco, the city where people live and work and play.
If you get out a map of San Francisco, it appears to be a perfect grid. With a few exceptions, there are north/south streets and east/west streets. The myth is that some faceless bureaucrat in Washington, DC, without ever having been in San Francisco, laid a grid work on the city for them to follow, blissfully unaware of the contortions that San Franciscans would have to go through to follow that grid pattern over the approximately 40 steep hills in the peninsula.
Well, that’s a cute story but the truth is much more prosaic. Money Rules. Developers knew they could make more money selling more lots for more homes if the streets went in a straight line grid pattern. And San Franciscans made do. They live with incredibly steep streets and build sidewalks in places too steep for streets. I read that there are between 300 and 350 of these stairways throughout San Francisco. NOPE, we are not going to find and walk each and every one but we are going to make a small dent.
We’ve already sought out stairways in some areas but today are going to seek out more and some of the nicest in the city. We had a map and had plotted out path through the city. BUT - our first stairway came as Gary was scanning the road ahead looking for those crazy San Franciscans who are so used to their hills that they come blasing over them like Steve McQueen in Bullitt. Well, they aren’t actually flying like he did and have all 4 tires on the ground but the fear they instill is the same. Gary stopped, asked if I had seen that hill then parked and we got out. What a neat stairway and not even on our list. Beautiful gardens on each side and nicely divided between steps and landings. What a surprise.
Our actual list began on Oakhurst Lane. Well, it is not a lane as you think of a lane: it is a stairway which goes up a steep hill between two streets. Probably the only people who know about it are the residents of the two streets and they propbably don’t use it that much. But the stairway is pretty neat. It is surrounded on both sides with greenery, both planted and wild and, since it is painted green, it fits right in. In fact, until you’re walking up it, you can’t even see it all. Trust me on this, it has about 10 stories. Gary is taking the picture and I am a few levels below him. Note the distance between us and then the distance to the homes below and then the homes even below them in back of them. This is not unusual in San Francisco.
We walked this stairway intrigued by the homes built on either side. Please note the pillars holding this home up. Many are on stilts just like this. This is a really steep hill where the streets go around the hill. Unfortunately, that means that the homes are on only one side of the street and have a stilt foundation.
Once we got to the top, we began to look around and found several other steps modeled like the first one. Either the developer or the city put these in when the hill was being developed. All are painted green, all are surrounded by greenery and most have great views down to the neighborhoods surrounding the hill.
Next we headed to what is called one of the favorite stairways by several authors: the Vulcan Stairway. And, I’ll have to agree: Again, the sides are covered by gardens, the stairway divides in two and there are even several pathways through the greenery so that you can walk from one side to another. The front doors of several homes face this stairway and even have their mailboxes here. In fact their address is Vulcan Stairway since they have no other access to the street. These are the people who have to carry all their groceries, and other purchases like TV’s and refrigerators down the stairway to their home. They must park on the street above or below and walk the stairway to their home.
Two blocks away is the counterpart, another stairway with wooden steps and a friendly well-fed grey cat who followed us all the way down. Whereas the Vulcan Stairway had manicured gardens, this stairway had a more natural, wild feel to it.
We climbed some railroad ties up a small hill called Tank Hill from where we had a great view of the city.
but back at our car, we drove to the next stairway, up to the crest of Corona Heights where we had an even better view. We are intrigued that most of the buildings have a white finish to them and gleam in the sunlight. There were lots of others on the Heights all enjoying the view. Below was the Randall Museum which had some marvelous kinetic art on the side which moved with every breeze and wind that came by. Each one of those elongated triangle pieces is what I could best describe as a wind sock at an airport. Each moves independently of the others in the wind and points in the direction of the wind. Here it looks as the wind is coming from many directions all at once.
We then walked ‘down’ to the Mission District and ‘down’ is the operative word. The rule for these cars is to park perpendicular to the curb as is the rule in many areas. But note how the homes ‘step’ down the hill.
Being so close to the Bi-Rite-Creamery, we decided to walk down for an ice cream cone. We also had to go to the bathroom and the Dolores Mission was also right down the street. I decided that I would pay the $3.00 entry fee to use their bathrooms and consider it a donation to the mission. Gary opted to use the Biff’s biffs in Dolores Park. He later confirmed that my choice was the right one.
We noticed lots of people sitting in the park, all facing down the hill as if there were going to be an event. They had blankets, food, wine and beer and were enjoying it all. One big group was practicing cheerleading routines for some college. Several guys were throwing footballs. On guy was being a DJ and had his whatever it’s called mixing music for his girlfriend sunning on a blanket and whoever else was listening. Interestingly, none were as old as Gary and I are. In fact we saw only a few people the whole day who approached our age. Where are the people who are 40 and over in San Francisco? Are they hiding? In the end, we think that the only ‘event’ was a sunny weekend afternoon.
San Francisco has many micro climates. While on the coast around the GG Bridge, it might be foggy and covered by the marine layer, the Mission and Castro districts are the sunniest and warmest in the city. Coats on the coast, shorts and t-shirts in the Castro and Mission.
Across the street from the park was Bi Rite Creamery, one of the best ice cream shops in SF. We had been here a few days ago and could have been first in line. However, we had just eaten lunch, were not ready for ice cream and walked on. Today we walked down to sample their flavors. Ouch, we should have stopped when we were here the first time. Look at this line. It stretches along the building for about 12’, then comes out to the curb for another 15’, then around the corner for a final 13’. Don’t want to block the curb. Gary is the last one in line on the left waving his arms. All those people in the picture- waiting in line, except for the woman in red.
The line went faster than we had thought and we were at the counter in about 30 minutes. I chose the mocha almond fudge and the cookies and cream while G chose the roasted coconut and vanilla banana. $5.00 each but still cheaper than we've seen other places and I couldn’t see the calorie count so I was blissfully ignorant and could enjoy it. We took time to sit outside on a bench to savor it and enjoy the crowds.
We noticed that the fog was rolling in so we hied back up the hill, found our car and tried to get over to the Golden Gate Bridge to see it in the fog. We got there but there was no fog around the bridge. We also decided that the iconic picture of the bridge supports in the fog was taken from above in a helicopter. If we had taken a picture of the bridge in the fog from where we were, on the ground, we would have been in the fog ourselves and couldn’t have seen a thing. But we did see some art on the beach.
We did see some fog rolling in on what is truly a signature antenna on top of Sutro Hill. And, there are also some trolley lines, another signature of San Francisco.
Finally, on our way home the sun came out and we decided to stop and see the Mosaic Stairway, one of the most beautiful in the city. And here it is - well worth the stop. It is beautiful.
People in the neighborhood donated to buy steps and then got their name on the step. We met a woman who was out walking her dog who, she told us, has his name on a step. Lush greenery on both sides. From the top of the stairs they look like ordinary steps but, from the bottom, you see the decorative tiles and their intricate and varied patterns.
Have you ever seen steps like this?
Then, to cap off our art sidewalk day, we found this in Pacifica. A car covered with Squirrels. I’ll have to admit, I think this is a ‘nutty’ thing to do. But, one of the bumper stickers is from a car art contest. I wonder if he won.
Home late to a salad for dinner (after our big ‘lunch’ of ice cream).
7.5 1523
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