Coram, MT - Sticky Buns and Elk Burgers

Today we went to Polebridge, MT 35 miles north of our campground. A day trip - but in Polebridge are some of the finest sticky buns in Montana. In fact, some might say the best sticky buns in the US. But, Polebridge itself is a town of who knows how many. There is a handful of houses, a hostel back along the river, cabins for rental but, as we hiked further and got higher, we saw others spread throughout the valley. Some were quite large and some were small. All required a long delivery of goods over a dirt road. The town is electricity free and the power comes from solar panels and a large generator.

Quirky and eclectic are probably the best words I can find to describe Polebridge. As we drove up the long dirt land, past the sign which said ‘Dust is a 4-letter word’ (a subtle hint to slow down - which most did), we were surprised to see that we were not the only ones making the long journey up to Polebridge. The middle of nowhere and the parking lot had at least 11 or 12 cars in it.

The real attractions of Polebridge are the Polebridge Mercantile, in business since 1914, and the Northern Lights Saloon. Originally the Saloon was the homestead of William and Jessie Adair. They were the first owners and proprietors of the Polebridge Mercantile. It was a popular stop for those going to the park to stock up with food and supplies. It was also a gathering place. One of the earliest social events was a wedding reception for Eve DeFord and Chauncey (Chance) Beebe. Music was provided by a small organ that only Mrs. Horace Brewster could play. She knew only one song, ‘The Missouri Waltz’ and played it all evening while folks danced.

The ‘Merc’, has an eclectic variety of goods: wine, books, clothing, convenience store foods, shopping bags, magnets, dairy foods, deli sandwiches, ice cream - in fact, you name it, they probably have it. But their specialty is baked goods. They are renown for these and even take them to several farmer’s markets in the area. They have 2 large bakery cases, on the bottom of each is cookies of every variety you could imagine from snicker-doodles to Russian tea cakes and from chocolate chip to macadamia white chocolate. The middle shelf is bars and brownies along with some other sweets. The top shelf has the danish, the bear claws and other pastries. There are focaccias, ciabattas, scones piled high. Loaves of bread are on a rack in the middle of the store. On the top of the bakery case are more goodies and behind the counter is a shelf with the newest and warmest sticky buns.

Did we get the warm sticky buns? You bet. Gary and Tom got one and I got the huckleberry bear claw. However, when Gary saw his sticky bun, filling the plate it was on, his eyes bugged out and I knew that I would have to sacrifice and come to the rescue. We saved the bear claw and shared the sticky bun.

We sat on the porch along with the others who had made the long journey up here. Note the two telephone booths. We then wandered around, talked with some others who were in the area and - guess what, it’s time for lunch. How about spinach, Swiss and smoked turkey on tomato pesto wraps? Sounds like a plan to me.

Hey, we’ve got to get out of here before we eat all day.

Our original intent was to drive over to Bowman Lake and hike around it. We reached the ranger station and met Morgan, who wanted a ride to the lake along with his pack which included a canoe, paddles and a tent. Sure, we said and we 4 took the heavily rutted road to the lake.

Again, were we ever surprised to see all the others around the lake and in nearby campground. Here's Morgan inflating his canoe so he can cross the lake while Tom watches him.

We meet so many people in our journeys and share some time with them, knowing that we will probably never see them again and wondering how their adventure turned out. But, every now we see that person again and can find out. Sure enough we met Morgan about 5 days later by chance in a grocery store. He had had a great time on Bowman Lake and was now heading over to the east side of the park to hike and kayak. His adventure was going well. His only problem was that he had to go back to work on the following Monday. Shucks. I guess you have to pay for your adventures someway. 

The view across Bowman Lake was pretty cool.

I’m guessing this is NOT the middle of nowhere, it is the center of outdoor recreation. We began our hike and Tom, whose feet had large blisters from Monday’s hike, pulled out. He’s got to save his feet and legs for his 450-mile over the Continental Divide bike ride starting on Sunday. Gary and I then just went 2.5 miles out and back and we 3 headed back to the RV for dinner.

Hey, there’s the Northern Lights Saloon - how about we stop here for dinner? Look how many others are here for dinner. We shared a table with a couple who drive at least 75 minutes to be here and do this several times a summer. Tom ordered the elk burger which the waiter told him had to be a bit on the rare side to eat. Well-done would taste like shoe leather. Gary and I each had a hamburger and sweet potato fries - we should have shared. (Tom and Gary are off to the left in the picture above. We are 10B while the couple at the other end of the table is 10A. Get to know your neighbors.)

So there you have it: snack, lunch and dinner in Polebridge, MT. And, by the way, did I mention that the sticky buns are truly magnificent and that, if you’re ever in the area, drive up. Heck, even if you’re miles away, this would make a good stop.