On Wednesday we headed over to the San Juan Islands. Yep, another ferry but a much longer ride with many more islands to see. The San Juan Islands are north of Seattle but south of Vancouver and - surprise - surrounded by water. One of the biggest islands is San Juan Island and its largest town is Friday Harbor, which is our goal. The ferry took about 1 1/2 hours and I loved it all. I circled from bow to stern trying to see it all. Islands to the left of me, islands to the right, some large, some small, some merely a large rock in the water.
We had planned to walk on to the ferry and rent some scooters in where the ferry landed in Friday Harbor. But the scooters were $70 for the day (each) while the car cost only $50 round trip on the ferry. ‘Do the math’, as my brother says. We did and took the car. Are we ever glad that we did. The scooters would have been cooler to ride on, much slower and we couldn’t have seen as much as we did and very costly to leave in a parking lot while we toured museums and visitor centers.
Our first stop was for a cup of coffee at the ‘best coffee shop on the island.’ Actually, it was pretty good and they had the best chocolate chip, macadamia nut, coconut cookies to savor. Then it was off to visit the Whale Museum where they specialize in educating people about whales and the environment. What can we do to ensure that the whales survive? They keep track of what is called the resident group of whales, the whales that live year round in the waters surrounding the San Juan Islands. These are Orcas and each has individual white and black markings so that they have they named and keep track of them.
The museum has a full skeleton of an Orca.
While we were there, a group of 6th graders came in with their teachers and chaperons for an hour at the Museum. They listened well, knew the answers to the questions asked by the biologist and were learning a lot. They discussed the three major human causes for the Orcas being named an endangered species. First, the salmon that they like to eat are in short supply. They are picky eaters and will only eat salmon and only Chinook salmon. Picky, picky picky. Secondly, their habitat is being polluted. Since they are at the top of the food chain, they get more pollutants than those at the bottom. Finally, their echolocation used to find food and to navigate is being disturbed by all the boats in the water. That’s why whale boats stay so far away from the whales.
The museum also had recorded a ‘conversation’ between a mother and baby whale. We were both intrigued by a film about the intelligence of these whales. One researcher found that the whale he was studying liked pictures of other orcas. We saw him hold up a picture of an orca and the whale moved in close and turned to the side so that its eye could get close to the picture. This whale turned away from mammals like horses but did want to see other mammals like itself.
Interesting museum. But now it’s time to hit the island roads and find out about this ‘Pig War.’ Not one of the most exciting names for a war - maybe: the ‘War for the San Juans’ might have been more exciting but it was over a Pig and ‘Pig War’ it was named. Here’s the story.
When America and Great Britain settled their differences left over from the War of 1812, they decided to draw the line between the boundaries in the middle of the strait. Sounds pretty clear to me - right down the middle of the water: Britain got everything west of the line and America got everything east of the line. Easy peasy. BUT - here’s the catch: there were 2, count them, 2 straits. One strait, the Haro Strait, is on the west side of the San Juan Islands and the Rosario Strait is on the east side of the islands. Who gets the San Juan Islands? Which Strait does the line go down the middle of? Hmmm, not so easy peasy.
The British moved in the Hudson Bay Company which established a farm with sheep, cattle, goats and - pigs. Meanwhile American settlers moved in, settling what they thought was American land. Several incidents occurred over the years culminating in the killing of a British pig by an American in 1859. Tempers flared, armies were called in and things could have gone south pretty fast if cooler heads had not prevailed. Finally, a truce was declared until the matter could be settled and both armies settled down for a long time. The British built a compound on the north side of the island called the British Camp while the Americans built a compound on the south side of the island called - natch - American Camp.
The Americans almost lost the islands because they were fighting the Civil War and every man was needed there. At one point 6 men were left on the American side and these men almost had their orders to leave but someone realized that Britain would get the islands and the orders were rescinded. How did it end? Well, both sides agreed to arbitration and Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany sided with the Americans and today the San Juan Islands are part of America.
We headed south to American Camp first to check that out. As we were walking to the VC, we noticed that they had a telescope set up with a sign on it ‘Nesting Eagles.’ Sure enough, high up in the tree was an eagle watching over the nest. Cool.
Inside we watched a movie, checked out the exhibits then walked around what had been the compound. The two main building are original. One had remained on the property but one had been moved into Friday Harbor. Someone was looking at pictures of American Camp and realized that one of the houses in town was one of the missing buildings. So, it was moved back to where it had originally stood. Here you an see them placing it in place.
Next we headed on up to English Camp but stopped at several points along the way to see any orcas that might be swimming by. This is one of the few places in America where you can actually stand on shore and watch whales swimming by at close range. Not far out where you really can’t see them but in close.
Our views were far out however. Yet, we are lucky to have seen them.
Next was English Camp at the other end of the island. As we drove over we noticed 3 small foxes at play. The third one had just bounded into a small ditch.
They had a guard house, a formal garden, a nice bay and was a much more secluded and pleasant camp than the Americans.
Since they were so close to Vancouver, they saw many visitors and even had dances with some of the local belles. Since we were there at 5:00 when the VC closed, we got to participate. in the flag lowering ceremony. You know how the American flag has to be folded just so - in a triangle and with the start out side and tucked in. Well, not the Union Jack. Roll it up, fold it, stuff it in to a bag and throw it on the floor. Whatever. But, our docent did it up right: we sang ‘God Save the Queen’ as he slowly lowered the flag, we held it off the ground, folded it ceremoniously and then rolled it up.
By the way, what two state flags have the Union Jack in them?
What two places can officially, legally have the Union Jack flying?
After the flag ceremony, we hiked up to the hill where the officers lived - great view, natch. Then drove back to the ferry landing, past an alpaca farm.
We thought we might be late for the 6:30 ferry but that would give us time to get something for dinner. All we’ve had today is breakfast, 1/2 cookie each and 2 protein bars about 2:30. Not a lot of restaurants out in the island interior but we can eat in Friday Harbor while we wait for the 7:15 ferry or on the 6:30 ferry, if we make it, where there is a snack bar. We got to the ferry 5 minutes before it took off and it looked as if we had missed it. Gary rushed over and found out that we could still get on the 6:30 ferry, we drove on and rushed out to get some pictures. OK, time for a sandwich. Oh, shucks, the snack bar is close. Oh, well.
We ended up with dinner in Subway. At 8:30, when the ferry docked in Anacortes. At 8:30 we didn’t want to wait for a long meal, just a sandwich.
Eagles, alpacas, orcas, foxes and a pig. Ferries, historic fort and a formal flag lowering. What more could we ask for in a day?
Louisiana, Hawaii.
English Camp on San Juan Island, the British embassy
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